@Dangler I have a few questions since you seem to be the only person that has modded the glans chamber to accept a hand pump.

Since I need to add air and push the diaphragm out, I think I need 2 male connectors, (1 on the tube attached to the pump, and 1 on a tube to blow air into). I'm trying to make a list of what to order.

2x Male Connector
1x Female Connector
Liquid Nails
Teflon Tape
Several Feet Of 3/16" ID Tubing

I have a standard hand pump from lapump and I think the tubing that came with it is .25 inches. Can 3/16" tubing attach to the pump or will I need transition tubing? If it doesn't fit I'll have to add either transition tubing or a different hand pump to the list.

Thanks
 
Could you also give me a link for 3/16" tubing? I was looking on colepalmer but they have a million different kinds and I'm not sure about what material and what outside diameter.

There also seem to be a bunch of different kinds of liquid nails products so I'm not sure what exactly I need.
 
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BabaBooey, et al,

I find a more exacting control of increases/decreases in vacuum, a big help, in fastening, and subsequent "tweaking" of that fastening also. Plan for a short learning curve on finding what works best for you, and if you have it, your foreskin.

The folks at Cole Parmer are very helpful if you need to email/consult about anything. Just be sure to give them enough info to work with. You can leave out the intimate details, of course.

All this modifying can be un-done. The slightest air leak will result in degraded holding by chamber. I use a Harbor freight Brake bleeder pump. If I wanted more of a permanent attachment at the end of the chamber, I might use a white Silicon Bathtub caulk to affix parts. Avoid expoxy, its way too permanent, lol.

Quick disconnect male fitting: http://www.coleparmer.com/Product/Q...n_Tube_ID_1_8_in_Flow_Size_Acetal/EW-06360-44

Quick disconnect female fitting with shut off valve: http://www.coleparmer.com/Product/Q...n_Tube_ID_1_8_in_Flow_Size_Acetal/EW-06360-22

Reducer Connector, 1/4" to 3/16" ( for coupling a tube with inner diameter 0.25" to a tube with an inner diameter of 3/16") (you may or may not need some)

http://www.coleparmer.com/Product/Reducing_Connector_Polyethylene_1_4_x_3_16_10_PACK/EW-30622-29

Pvc Tubing, 3/16 X 5/16", 50-ft/pk:
http://www.coleparmer.com/Product/Pvc_Tubing_3_16_X_5_16_50_ft_pk/EW-96605-02

Pvc Tubing, 1/4 X 3/8", 50-ft/pk
http://www.coleparmer.com/Product/Pvc_Tubing_1_4_X_3_8_50_ft_pk/EW-96605-03

Liquid nails at Home Depot:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...&langId=-1&keyword=liquid+nails&storeId=10051

Wrap tip of chamber threads with teflon tape, coat with liquid nails to seal, attach tubing, let it set/dry.
Bad photo by a cheap camera:
View attachment 25450
 

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I have an LA Pump hand pump which I think is the same as the Harbor Freight. Do you know if this accepts 3/16" ID tubing? I think it will probably go on there, and then it would be easier to use 3/16" for the whole thing and not have to use the reducing connector.

I thought I knew how this would work, but the picture actually confused me. Then I realized that the pic doesn't have the 3/16" fittings. You've got (from left to right) chamber, reducing connector, 1/4" female fitting that isn't barbed (from a penis pump), 1/4" male fitting, 1/4" tubing. Was the picture from your old setup?

Thanks for your help.
 
You can measure the diameter to check. In most cases, we are talking Inner Diameter measurements.
Yes this was rev #1, without using reducing connector.
In actuality, when you have all or most of the parts in front of you, then you can fine tune the mod to suit your needs.
Use longer lengths to start, you can trim later.

The picture: Chamber will best mate with a tube with 3/16" ID. 1/4" may be too sloppy a fit. The female valved coupler, was threaded into a 1/4" tube, it would not fit into a 3/16" tube. Then came joining the 3/16" to the 1/4", as shown in photo. I was able to insert the smaller into the larger. Later I used a reducer coupler.
As far as what tubing ID you'll want to go from the male coupler, back to you pump, you get to solve that one.
I hope I have not made this too confusing;
I have years of odds and ends parts, pumps, fittings, assorted paraphernalia from different Penis Enlargement devices to help out on projects like this. I even bought a spare chamber that I'm going to try a different mod to, in the future.
 
I ordered all of the coleparmer.com products. I got the 1/4" tubing & reducing connector in case my pump can't use 3/16" ID tubing.

What kind of teflon tape did you use? I'm not sure the difference between them because they all seem to say for plastics, but there must be a reason why there are different types.

Thanks again. You've been a huge help.
 
I'll take pics when I'm done and I should also take pics of how I modified my base to make it larger.
 
Sounds like a complicated device. Hope it's not too much of a fuckaround cuz I can get my noose on and off in like 15 seconds flat
 
I replaced the latex parts today because I wasn't in the glans chamber as securely as usual. This process took a long time because while I was able to get a seal, I wasn't getting drawn into the chamber. The 1st squeeze of the pump ball got only about half of my glans in, and a 2nd pump didn't really do anything. Sometimes the 2nd pump would stay partially compressed and wouldn't fully expand. I had to force my way in and eventually got it to hold. I'm wearing the device now so there was no leak. I'm thinking I need xl sluices because I can't think of any other reason why this would happen.
 
A new, non stretched diaphragm, will offer higher resistance to the vacuum, than a more "used" one. It will require more force to pull it & your glans in.

Imagine if the diaphragm were twice the latex thickness, you can visualize it needing a whole lot more vacuum pull, than one that is just paper thin.

In using my pump w/ gauge, I can see the difference required in "hg, between a new & a used diaphragm.
In this case it helps me to use a bit more lube.
 
I mentioned this before but I think its worth a repeat. Putting a tiny bit of lube on the glans makes a whole lot of difference. I experienced the exact same thing that bababooey described above and this trick Plus the xl sleuce did the job.
 
I always put lube on my glans, but it's still not easy to get in with the new parts. Even once I'm in I start to pull out of the chamber after awhile. I'll notice that there is some space between the chamber and sluice ring, and the top part of my glans is partially out of the chamber. I don't think there's a leak because I tried inflating and deflating and it seems fine, but I don't know why else I wouldn't stay in securely. I don't know how having a tighter sluice would make me slide out; if anything it should keep me in more securely unless the tightness is preventing me from attaching it properly.

One thing I noticed when putting on the new latex parts was that I couldn't get the sluice positioned evenly in relation to the glans chamber, but I don't know if that relates to my problem or not.

I was really enjoying being able to use an extender for hours a day, but now I can't seem to get it to work again. Hopefully the xl sluices and hand pump mod help.
 
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I finished the hand pump mod and I'm very happy with it. I couldn't get the tubing onto the glans chamber with the teflon tape because the tape would bunch up, so I attached the tube directly to the chamber. I can't see ever wanting to undo it anyway. I can post pics later along with pics of my modified base.

My only concern is that it took 12.5 hg to get drawn in because of the tight new latex parts. I have xl sluices ordered so I can try them, but as long as 12.5 hg isn't too much vacuum, I think I'll stick with the regular size. I use an adaptor so I doubt that I would need xl sluices.

@Dangler Have you experienced any negative effects like fluid buildup at 12.5 hg? I think you've said that 15 hg is too much, so 12.5 hg is probably around the cutoff point. Also, you've mentioned that you adjust the level of vacuum. Is this only when initially putting it on, or is it throughout a set in the extender? It seems to me that it wouldn't be necessary during a set, because when using the pump ball, if I got enough vacuum at the start, I wouldn't need to adjust it later.

For anyone that has the LA Pump/Harbor Freight hand pump: You can use all 3/16" ID tubing throughout and you don't need any 1/4" ID or transition tubing.
 
The "12.5" is what is required to move parts & glans mechanically, so to speak. Not that your glans is exposed to that, unless your diaphragm breaks. If thats what it takes, given the amount of lube in place, that is fine. You'll find that as latex parts get "loosened up" from stretching, it will take less.

Adjusting: done when ever I feel like it i need to. The need to adjust can be at the effect of minute air leaks anywhere, glans size changes, slippage due to amount of tension/pull applied, planetary alignment.....Play it by ear is the best asdvice.

WTG, baba, post a pic if you can, show off your work !
 
Baba_Booey;485564 said:
I always put lube on my glans, but it's still not easy to get in with the new parts. Even once I'm in I start to pull out of the chamber after awhile. I'll notice that there is some space between the chamber and sluice ring, and the top part of my glans is partially out of the chamber. I don't think there's a leak because I tried inflating and deflating and it seems fine, but I don't know why else I wouldn't stay in securely. I don't know how having a tighter sluice would make me slide out; if anything it should keep me in more securely unless the tightness is preventing me from attaching it properly.

One thing I noticed when putting on the new latex parts was that I couldn't get the sluice positioned evenly in relation to the glans chamber, but I don't know if that relates to my problem or not.

I was really enjoying being able to use an extender for hours a day, but now I can't seem to get it to work again. Hopefully the xl sluices and hand pump mod help.

If you slide out after awhile, using the XL sluices is going to make things worse. I know I tried using them. If you have a water based lube, try working with that to aid the insertion process. If you have not yet tried both sets of reducing rings, experiment away.
You may need to work out just how much glans you need inserted. A side effect of frennulum swelling can be expected, it is not a show stopper, just a side effect to deal with.
hth
 
I've done a few sets and I'm experimenting with how much vacuum to use. I started to feel pain during one of my sets, and it was because I had slid partially out and there was an indent on the top middle of my glans (I think from the sluice digging in there).

I like using the hand pump, but I don't really like going by hg because, as with a penis pump, you can pump up to a certain hg, but then it slowly goes down as your tissues adapt. Instead, I've tried doing small pumps until I'm in enough. I can tell from using the device before where the sluice ring needs to be in relation to my circumcision scar.

Here are pics of my modified chamber and larger base.
 

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I'm going to have to start going by hg because the method of just pumping until I'm in enough doesn't keep me in securely. So far I've gotten it right once, but I've slipped the other times.

@Dangler What is your process for putting the chamber on? I'd be interested to know what you pump up to and if you continue to pump to stay at a certain hg as your tissues adapt.
 
Process: Some times my glans is enlarged more than others; that effects the process. Lube sluice and glans/corona. Pump to about 10 to 12 " hg. Using a milking action to help push glans into chamber, which causes a decrease in vacuum. Raise to 10 or so, re-milk.
I insert either:
until I feel corona slide by the sluice ring, and stop there.
or
until corona is just outside of the sluice ring and stop there, pumping to keep it there as traction is applied. Application of traction can cause slipping, doh !
The latter is used if my frennulum is "tender" feeling. Helps somewhat.
hth
 
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