idea for a 3rd Bib design

Bib said:

The () thing does not work. The more concave the sides are, the less grip, and the less circulation. I spent months trying to make that work, and it does not.

Click to expand...

Is that not the shape of the clamp used on the Captn's Wench?

Pandora,

>I mean more like the original the wells in the original have more of a curve<

No. The Starter was made from the prototype of the regular. The inside fingers should be almost exactly the same, except shorter.

>Well the hex nuts that holds the hinge in place digs into me along with the bolt it is only the far back ones that do this and i am toeing out and the top teeth have a little gap so i can tightin some more if needed and i am hanging S.O. The hex nuts the second ones are all the way out.<

Hmmm, what do you mean by "The hex nuts the second ones are all the way out"? Do you mean you ran the wing nuts all the way out, then moved the hex nuts as far as possible, and then tightened the wing nuts back down?

>what do u mean by this cuase as i far as i know the top gap has to be smaller
than the bottom.<

Yes, the top gap needs to be smaller than the bottom gap, but relative to the bottom gap. The mental picture that I have is that you have an extremely large bottom gap, and very little top gap. My question was, did you experiment with a somewhat smaller bottom gap, and a somewhat larger top gap.

See, most guys can fully mesh the top teeth, almost no gap on top, and the bottom teeth of the hanger still contain the bottom of the shaft. You probably read something about this, and got this mental picture. But if you have a very large girth, you may need a slightly larger top gap, in order to have a smaller bottom gap, and contain the bottom of the shaft.

There should be a happy medium, where the shaft is contained between the top teeth and the bottom teeth, and the shaft does not impact either the top bolt, or the bottom bolts.

Is there any way for you to email me pics of what you are doing?

Thanks,

Bigger

Lifer,

>Is that not the shape of the clamp used on the Captn's Wench?<

I have no idea what the shape is of Cap's Wench. But if you mean the outer clamp, that does not affect the ultimate shape if the gripping surfaces on the inside.

Bigger

Both you and stillwantmore tell people how to make concave hangers.

http://www.mattersofsize.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=408

http://www.mattersofsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8740

Are they unsafe? Do they work?

Lifer said:

Both you and stillwantmore tell people how to make concave hangers.

http://www.mattersofsize.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=408

http://www.mattersofsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8740

Are they unsafe? Do they work?

Click to expand...

These are Bib's original home made designs before the production hangers came out. These are not "concave". They use circular compression with the semi soft hose material and the hose clamp tightening down around the penis in a circular motion. In other simpler terms, the home made hangers tighten similar to a "zip tie" would tighten. As you pull the end of the "zip tie", the "O" gets smaller. If the home made hangers were "concave" "()" they would be rigid like the production pieces and the insides would not change...however the production pieces are not concave, they more resemble "[]" with very slight angles.

No, they are not unsafe. They take a lot more tinkering with to get right in my opinion...as far as comfort and proper fitting goes. I have hung as heavy as 20lbs with the "modified" home made hanger (see instructions/diagrams) with no issues. Most men will never get that heavy though. The production pieces, to include the "Starter" allow more ease of learning to use the hanger, as well as a wider range of adjustment, and more weight to be used over time. Not to mention the fact that the production pieces allow the very convienent benefit that once you have your settings figured out, you rarely if ever have to change them.

Pandora said:

>

wrap with Theraband and see if u still fit into it so snuggle.

Click to expand...

Ah yes, the beauty of learning to adapt to and overcome my adversities! I tried theraband a few YEARSago, unlike some who hold their tongues so loosely before speaking and did not care for the way it worked for me...it did not. Again, have you checked any of my help threads? My hanging video? I ask to help you from my own experience. As I'm sure you know, you may often benefit from the culmination of the knowledge aquired from MORE than one opinion. Try a different wrap for example. Some cloth...some Ace wrap like I preferred, or maybe a combination of the two.

You dont state your erect girth by the way. Giving more information like your erect girth, flaccid wrapped girth with whatever materials you choose to use (oh hey a rhyme!) as well as your hanger settings....AND details like are you adjusting the hanger properly according to the instructions on the hanger website (http://www.bibhangers.com) will only help you out. I thought I was using the production hanger right for MONTHS and then found out that I was not. I would put the hanger on with the bottom wing nuts backed all the way out, hinge the top halves inside the top setup like they should be, THEN tighten the bottom against my penis. When in fact, the bottom wing nuts should not be used that way. If I've confused anyone refer to the hanger guidelines on the site.

>No. The Starter was made from the prototype of the regular. The inside fingers should be almost exactly the same, except shorter.<

Then how come i can move the bottom nuts in pretty far and fully mess the top teeth on the orginal but i can not do this on the starter.

What is different about the orginal that lets me do this.

>Hmmm, what do you mean by "The hex nuts the second ones are all the way out"? Do you mean you ran the wing nuts all the way out, then moved the hex nuts as far as possible, and then tightened the wing nuts back down?<

yes.

>Yes, the top gap needs to be smaller than the bottom gap, but relative to the bottom gap. The mental picture that I have is that you have an extremely large bottom gap, and very little top gap. My question was, did you experiment with a somewhat smaller bottom gap, and a somewhat larger top gap.

See, most guys can fully mesh the top teeth, almost no gap on top gap, and the bottom teeth of the hanger still contain the bottom of the shaft. You probably read something about this, and got this mental picture. But if you have a very large girth, you may need a slightly larger top gap, in order to have a smaller bottom gap, and contain the bottom of the shaft.

There should be a happy medium, where the shaft is contained between the top teeth and the bottom teeth, and the shaft does not impact either the top bolt, or the bottom bolts.

Is there any way for you to email me pics of what you are doing?

Thanks,<

I use to hang with the bottom gap bigger than the top gap or the top gap and bottom gap around about the same. But then i read some where about making sure that the top gap was smaller than the bottom gap and to try and mesh the top teeth or have as little a gap as possible so i try that and i liked it the best.

i also noticed that the more weight i hung how u suggested to do it the more smaller the bottom gap would have to be making another problem where the teeth would start to hurt when i would tighten down and my shaft would push the top bolt up and cause the washer to slowly grind away at the washer seat making the hanger useless.

I still think it would be nice for a hanger that is in between the regular and the starter.

thankyou.

So if you have a "circular compression" hanger that is "not unsafe" and were to relieve the pressure top and bottom, it could work? So basically you'd have O with the pressure relieved top and bottom and it'd look just about like ( ).

Look at your hand as it closes around your dick in the under-hand position to do a standard manual stretch. Now stop your hand just before it completely closes. Open top or U, right? What shape are your fingers and palm in? Not flat. I'd think that'd be a damn good way to stretch and not place a lot of pressure on them top nerves.

Look, I'm not trying to re-design your piece, it's just common sense to any manual stretcher that a rounded object gripping your penis works. Maybe it's a bitch to manufacture given the variance in your customers dick sizes, but it works.

So rounded ( ) hanger sides can work just fine. Just not in the production Bib models. Cool. Thanks. I now leave you guys alone so you can continue to help pandora here.

>,Ah yes, the beauty of learning to adapt to and overcome my adversities! I tried theraband a few YEARSago, unlike some who hold their tongues so loosely before speaking and did not care for the way it worked for me...it did not. Again, have you checked any of my help threads? My hanging video? I ask to help you from my own experience. As I'm sure you know, you may often benefit from the culmination of the knowledge aquired from MORE than one opinion. Try a different wrap for example. Some cloth...some Ace wrap like I preferred, or maybe a combination of the two.

You dont state your erect girth by the way. Giving more information like your erect girth, flaccid wrapped girth with whatever materials you choose to use (oh hey a rhyme!) as well as your hanger settings....AND details like are you adjusting the hanger properly according to the instructions on the hanger website (http://www.bibhangers.com) will only help you out. I thought I was using the production hanger right for MONTHS and then found out that I was not. I would put the hanger on with the bottom wing nuts backed all the way out, hinge the top halves inside the top setup like they should be, THEN tighten the bottom against my penis. When in fact, the bottom wing nuts should not be used that way. If I've confused anyone refer to the hanger guidelines on the site.[/QUOTE]<

Who says i dont not care LOL? i do i dont i am im not hey i rhyme too.

I've done all the things u said.

I brought the ace wrap as well i do not understand how u used it cause it is as rough as hell i think i may have gotten the wrong stuff.

Lifer,

>Both you and stillwantmore tell people how to make concave hangers.
Are they unsafe? Do they work?<

SWM is dead on.

>So if you have a "circular compression" hanger that is "not unsafe" and were to relieve the pressure top and bottom, it could work? So basically you'd have O with the pressure relieved top and bottom and it'd look just about like ( ).<

It could work, yes. You especially want to miss the nerve bundle behind the top of the head.

>Look at your hand as it closes around your dick in the under-hand position to do a standard manual stretch. Now stop your hand just before it completely closes. Open top or U, right? What shape are your fingers and palm in? Not flat. I'd think that'd be a damn good way to stretch and not place a lot of pressure on them top nerves.<

You are correct. But I wanted to go a bit further, and make a hanger that was even better than the hand. To be correct here, the hand is not great for extended periods of stretching. The good points are that it is easy to take off the stress, and put back on. But for extended stressing at a known weight, the hand sucks.

>Look, I'm not trying to re-design your piece, it's just common sense to any manual stretcher that a rounded object gripping your penis works. Maybe it's a bitch to manufacture given the variance in your customers dick sizes, but it works.<

If you believe that, then the home-made Bibs, particularly the modified Bibs, and perfect for you. They are completely adjustable, and you can cut them to fit your own unit. But I abandoned the circular compression designs in favor of lateral pressure designs.

I tried for months, sticking to the concave pattern, trying to get a hanger that could grip properly, and provide all the other attributes I was seeking. It never worked.

>So rounded ( ) hanger sides can work just fine. Just not in the production Bib models.<

They can work fine. Just not as good as the lateral compression model.

Bigger

Pandora,

>Then how come i can move the bottom nuts in pretty far and fully mess the top teeth on the orginal but i can not do this on the starter.

What is different about the orginal that lets me do this.<

The Starter is a bit shorter than the regular. Less height between the top and bottom teeth.

>Yes, the top gap needs to be smaller than the bottom gap, but relative to the bottom gap. The mental picture that I have is that you have an extremely large bottom gap, and very little top gap. My question was, did you experiment with a somewhat smaller bottom gap, and a somewhat larger top gap.

See, most guys can fully mesh the top teeth, almost no gap on top gap, and the bottom teeth of the hanger still contain the bottom of the shaft. You probably read something about this, and got this mental picture. But if you have a very large girth, you may need a slightly larger top gap, in order to have a smaller bottom gap, and contain the bottom of the shaft.

There should be a happy medium, where the shaft is contained between the top teeth and the bottom teeth, and the shaft does not impact either the top bolt, or the bottom bolts.

Is there any way for you to email me pics of what you are doing?

Thanks,<

>I use to hang with the bottom gap bigger than the top gap or the top gap and bottom gap around about the same. But then i read some where about making sure that the top gap was smaller than the bottom gap and to try and mesh the top teeth or have as little a gap as possible so i try that and i liked it the best.<

Right. I am writing about smaller increments of adjustment. You always want the top gap to be smaller than the bottom gap. It is also best to have the top gap small enough, that the shaft never comes in contact with the top bolt. However, with almost any girth, you can have the proper adjustment on the bottom hex nut adjustments, to contain the shaft between the top and bottom teeth, and the pressure be on the top sides of the two major chambers.

>i also noticed that the more weight i hung how u suggested to do it the more smaller the bottom gap would have to be making another problem where the teeth would start to hurt when i would tighten down and my shaft would push the top bolt up and cause the washer to slowly grind away at the washer seat making the hanger useless.<

I am sorry. I do not understand exactly what you mean. You do not want the bottom gap so small that it pushes the shaft up into the top bolt. You always want the pressure on the top sides of the two major chambers. I am writing about much smaller increments of adjustment.

Did the washer seat fail?

Any pics or measurements would really help. If you can just give your wrapped flaccid girth measure, I can put you in the ballpark on bottom hex nut adjustment.

Bigger