idea for a 3rd Bib design

[dkeicei]

dear master Bib
after struggling with the bib starter for too long, i took out my bib regular.
and noticed that it's not just longer, but the ''cavity'' where the dick goes in
is "deeper", or ''wider''. i had a hell of a time with the starter, not the length but the "depth". the top screw was hitting the back of my wrapped noodle. then when i put on the bib regular, it didn't hit. i've got above average girth is why. but the problem with the regular is, it is TOO long. i don't have the flaccid length
for it...yet. trying to keep off my head, i've got to put it way back, and all
that does is pinch my "turkey neck" and the skin under my bush, and that really
hurts. so here is my idea, hope it is possible. make a third design. one that has
the same depth, or cavity, as the bib regular, but is as short as the bib starter,
for someone, like me, who has the girth, but not the flaccid length. i would
be the first to buy it. i say this cuz i am tempted to just cut the spongy stuff
off of the starter, but don't want to ruin it, not just yet. so can you make
such a new design? let us know, it would seem to fit into your product line very
nicely. if not, i will risk it and cut off the spongy; i got that idea from the
rapping video that SWM did, if it was him that did that.
maybe just take the mold for the original, or however you make these things, and cut it to be as short as the bib starter. i hope you understand what i'm saying here. thanks again !

 

[prince Albert]

How big is your flaccid girth?

 

[dkeicei]

five inches. is that alot? what does that tell you. of coarse sometimes it thickens a bit cuz i always struggle with the damn rapping and that makes it want to 'wake up'. still can't get a good rap going. any help would be much apreciated.

 

[Bib]

dkeicei,

I have often thought of making one as you describe. But it really is a huge pain, and I don't know how beneficial it would be.

But let's try to solve your problems using the Starter. Five inches, WFG is large, but is not nearly big enough to challenge the Starter. I have no problems with the Starter, and am larger.

Are you running out the bottom hex nut adjustments? If so, how far? You should be able to open up the bottom enough to accomodate a WFG of almost eight inches, without the top bolt digging in.

Bigger

 

[dkeicei]

wfg ?

 

[prince Albert]

wfg ?

wrapped flaccid girth

 

[Anon]

...i always struggle with the damn rapping and that makes it want to 'wake up'. still can't get a good rap going...

Lol, perhaps you should check out some of Eminem's techniques.

 

[Bib]

dkeicei,

Did you ever try letting the bottom hex nuts out some?

Bigger

 

[Pandora]

could this happen if enough people ask for this bigger cause this is what i need as well rofl

 

[Bib]

Pandora,

What is your exact problem. I still maintain that you can adjust the hangers to fit without added height on the hanger. The top bolt does not contact the top of the shaft if the bottom hex nuts are far enough out to allow the top gap to close.

I will help you with it any way I can.

But I suppose if enough evidence were there to support a taller hanger, I would look at it making them. I would need a clone.

Bigger

 

[Pandora]

Bigger,

well the probelm for me is that i have the bottom hexs nuts so far out that the blots that the hexs nuts is attach too dig in to the under side of my penis which causes pain and cuts off circulation.
I have to end my set after 10 mins or so somedays i can last more somedays less.
I brought the orginal and thought that it would fix this and it did but it is too long in length for me and too close to my head for my liking.

If u make the third design then i should be able to put the bottom hexs nuts closer in and my penis wont bluge through and hit the bottom hexs blots.

I hope you decide to make a third design to add to my collection.

thanks pandora rofl

 

[Bib]

Pandora,

>well the probelm for me is that i have the bottom hexs nuts so far out that the blots that the hexs nuts is attach too dig in to the under side of my penis which causes pain and cuts off circulation.<

So you are saying the bottom teeth do not hold the bottom of the shaft? It drops down to the bolts. What is your erect girth? Have you tried putting a bit of padding on the bolts, for the shaft to ride on?

>If u make the third design then i should be able to put the bottom hexs nuts closer in and my penis wont bluge through and hit the bottom hexs blots.<

I understand.

>I hope you decide to make a third design to add to my collection.<

Well, I can't promise anything, but I will keep it in mind. It will be a job making a prototype that is taller. How much taller would you think you might need?

Bigger

 

[Pandora]

It needs to be the same as the original like the depth and the bottom teeth maybe a bit bigger im not sure how much taller i would say the same as the original the wells need to have a wider curve like ( ) its hard for me to explain in words how i see it in my mind. Hope this helps

 

[Pandora]

i understand why u say taller now but some days i stuggle to fit into the starter so depth is needed also im sure it will be worth your hardwork i for one will be gratefull.

 

[Pandora]

If the above is to much of a task maybe half a inch i think that would clear me from the bottom bolt and hex nut cause the hex nut digs into me as well.

 

[Bib]

Pandora,

>It needs to be the same as the original like the depth and the bottom teeth maybe a bit bigger im not sure how much taller i would say the same as the original the wells need to have a wider curve like ( ) its hard for me to explain in words how i see it in my mind. Hope this helps<

The () thing does not work. The more concave the sides are, the less grip, and the less circulation. I spent months trying to make that work, and it does not.

>If the above is to much of a task maybe half a inch i think that would clear me from the bottom bolt and hex nut cause the hex nut digs into me as well.<

I do not understand this. There are two hex nuts on each of the two bottom bolts. One is right next to the hinge, and holds the bottom bolts in place, and should not be in the way. The other is the adjustment hex nut, and should be well within the right skid, out of the way. How are you pushing against the hex nuts?

What exactly is the distance from hex nut to hex nut on the bottom bolts? What is your top gap? Are the teeth meshed completely? Meshed somewhat? A bit of a gap?

How much did you experiment with top and bottom gaps? We still may be able to get the Starter to work properly as is.

Bigger

 

[stillwantmore]

My erect girth is a hair over 6" and my flaccid wrapped girth is around 5.5". Even though I no longer hang, I NEVER had a problem with the Starter. Read any of my how to threads by chance or watched my hanger demo video?

 

[More Meat]

My erect girth is a hair over 6" and my flaccid wrapped girth is around 5.5". Even though I no longer hang, I NEVER had a problem with the Starter. Read any of my how to threads by chance or watched my hanger demo video?

Why don't you hang anymore? Just curious, seeing as how Im about to start.

 

[stillwantmore]

Why don't you hang anymore? Just curious, seeing as how Im about to start.

I've got enough length. I'm very happy with my solid 7" non bp. All I'm interested in now is more girth.

 

[Pandora]

>The () thing does not work. The more concave the sides are, the less grip, and the less circulation. I spent months trying to make that work, and it does not.<

I mean more like the original the wells in the original have more of a curve


>I do not understand this. There are two hex nuts on each of the two bottom bolts. One is right next to the hinge, and holds the bottom bolts in place, and should not be in the way. The other is the adjustment hex nut, and should be well within the right skid, out of the way. How are you pushing against the hex nuts?

What exactly is the distance from hex nut to hex nut on the bottom bolts? What is your top gap? Are the teeth meshed completely? Meshed somewhat? A bit of a gap?<



Well the hex nuts that holds the hinge in place digs into me along with the bolt it is only the far back ones that do this and i am toeing out and the top teeth have a little gap so i can tightin some more if needed and i am hanging S.O. The hex nuts the second ones are all the way out.

>How much did you experiment with top and bottom gaps? We still may be able to get the Starter to work properly as is.<

what do u mean by this cuase as i far as i know the top gap has to be smaller
than the bottom.

My erect girth is a hair over 6" and my flaccid wrapped girth is around 5.5". Even though I no longer hang, I NEVER had a problem with the Starter. Read any of my how to threads by chance or watched my hanger demo video?

wrap with Theraband and see if u still fit into it so snuggle.

 

[Lifer]

The () thing does not work. The more concave the sides are, the less grip, and the less circulation. I spent months trying to make that work, and it does not.

Is that not the shape of the clamp used on the Captn's Wench?

 

[Bib]

Pandora,

>I mean more like the original the wells in the original have more of a curve<

No. The Starter was made from the prototype of the regular. The inside fingers should be almost exactly the same, except shorter.

>Well the hex nuts that holds the hinge in place digs into me along with the bolt it is only the far back ones that do this and i am toeing out and the top teeth have a little gap so i can tightin some more if needed and i am hanging S.O. The hex nuts the second ones are all the way out.<

Hmmm, what do you mean by "The hex nuts the second ones are all the way out"? Do you mean you ran the wing nuts all the way out, then moved the hex nuts as far as possible, and then tightened the wing nuts back down?

>what do u mean by this cuase as i far as i know the top gap has to be smaller
than the bottom.<

Yes, the top gap needs to be smaller than the bottom gap, but relative to the bottom gap. The mental picture that I have is that you have an extremely large bottom gap, and very little top gap. My question was, did you experiment with a somewhat smaller bottom gap, and a somewhat larger top gap.

See, most guys can fully mesh the top teeth, almost no gap on top, and the bottom teeth of the hanger still contain the bottom of the shaft. You probably read something about this, and got this mental picture. But if you have a very large girth, you may need a slightly larger top gap, in order to have a smaller bottom gap, and contain the bottom of the shaft.

There should be a happy medium, where the shaft is contained between the top teeth and the bottom teeth, and the shaft does not impact either the top bolt, or the bottom bolts.

Is there any way for you to email me pics of what you are doing?

Thanks,

Bigger

 

[Bib]

Lifer,

>Is that not the shape of the clamp used on the Captn's Wench?<

I have no idea what the shape is of Cap's Wench. But if you mean the outer clamp, that does not affect the ultimate shape if the gripping surfaces on the inside.

Bigger

 

[Lifer]

Both you and stillwantmore tell people how to make concave hangers.

http://www.mattersofsize.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=408

http://www.mattersofsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8740

Are they unsafe? Do they work?

 

[stillwantmore]

Both you and stillwantmore tell people how to make concave hangers.

http://www.mattersofsize.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=408

http://www.mattersofsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8740

Are they unsafe? Do they work?

These are Bib's original home made designs before the production hangers came out. These are not "concave". They use circular compression with the semi soft hose material and the hose clamp tightening down around the penis in a circular motion. In other simpler terms, the home made hangers tighten similar to a "zip tie" would tighten. As you pull the end of the "zip tie", the "O" gets smaller. If the home made hangers were "concave" "()" they would be rigid like the production pieces and the insides would not change...however the production pieces are not concave, they more resemble "[]" with very slight angles.

No, they are not unsafe. They take a lot more tinkering with to get right in my opinion...as far as comfort and proper fitting goes. I have hung as heavy as 20lbs with the "modified" home made hanger (see instructions/diagrams) with no issues. Most men will never get that heavy though. The production pieces, to include the "Starter" allow more ease of learning to use the hanger, as well as a wider range of adjustment, and more weight to be used over time. Not to mention the fact that the production pieces allow the very convienent benefit that once you have your settings figured out, you rarely if ever have to change them.

 

[stillwantmore]

>

wrap with Theraband and see if u still fit into it so snuggle.

Ah yes, the beauty of learning to adapt to and overcome my adversities! I tried theraband a few YEARSago, unlike some who hold their tongues so loosely before speaking and did not care for the way it worked for me...it did not. Again, have you checked any of my help threads? My hanging video? I ask to help you from my own experience. As I'm sure you know, you may often benefit from the culmination of the knowledge aquired from MORE than one opinion. Try a different wrap for example. Some cloth...some [words=http://www.mattersofsize.com/forum/showthread.php?44-Ace-Strapped-Jims-Joint]Ace[/words] wrap like I preferred, or maybe a combination of the two.

You dont state your erect girth by the way. Giving more information like your erect girth, flaccid wrapped girth with whatever materials you choose to use (oh hey a rhyme!) as well as your hanger settings....AND details like are you adjusting the hanger properly according to the instructions on the hanger website (http://www.bibhangers.com) will only help you out. I thought I was using the production hanger right for MONTHS and then found out that I was not. I would put the hanger on with the bottom wing nuts backed all the way out, hinge the top halves inside the top setup like they should be, THEN tighten the bottom against my penis. When in fact, the bottom wing nuts should not be used that way. If I've confused anyone refer to the hanger guidelines on the site.

 

[Pandora]

>No. The Starter was made from the prototype of the regular. The inside fingers should be almost exactly the same, except shorter.<

Then how come i can move the bottom nuts in pretty far and fully mess the top teeth on the orginal but i can not do this on the starter.

What is different about the orginal that lets me do this.

>Hmmm, what do you mean by "The hex nuts the second ones are all the way out"? Do you mean you ran the wing nuts all the way out, then moved the hex nuts as far as possible, and then tightened the wing nuts back down?<

yes.

>Yes, the top gap needs to be smaller than the bottom gap, but relative to the bottom gap. The mental picture that I have is that you have an extremely large bottom gap, and very little top gap. My question was, did you experiment with a somewhat smaller bottom gap, and a somewhat larger top gap.

See, most guys can fully mesh the top teeth, almost no gap on top gap, and the bottom teeth of the hanger still contain the bottom of the shaft. You probably read something about this, and got this mental picture. But if you have a very large girth, you may need a slightly larger top gap, in order to have a smaller bottom gap, and contain the bottom of the shaft.

There should be a happy medium, where the shaft is contained between the top teeth and the bottom teeth, and the shaft does not impact either the top bolt, or the bottom bolts.

Is there any way for you to email me pics of what you are doing?

Thanks,<

I use to hang with the bottom gap bigger than the top gap or the top gap and bottom gap around about the same. But then i read some where about making sure that the top gap was smaller than the bottom gap and to try and mesh the top teeth or have as little a gap as possible so i try that and i liked it the best.

i also noticed that the more weight i hung how u suggested to do it the more smaller the bottom gap would have to be making another problem where the teeth would start to hurt when i would tighten down and my shaft would push the top bolt up and cause the washer to slowly grind away at the washer seat making the hanger useless.

I still think it would be nice for a hanger that is in between the regular and the starter.

thankyou.

 

[Lifer]

So if you have a "circular compression" hanger that is "not unsafe" and were to relieve the pressure top and bottom, it could work? So basically you'd have O with the pressure relieved top and bottom and it'd look just about like ( ).

Look at your hand as it closes around your dick in the under-hand position to do a standard manual stretch. Now stop your hand just before it completely closes. Open top or U, right? What shape are your fingers and palm in? Not flat. I'd think that'd be a damn good way to stretch and not place a lot of pressure on them top nerves.

Look, I'm not trying to re-design your piece, it's just common sense to any manual stretcher that a rounded object gripping your penis works. Maybe it's a bitch to manufacture given the variance in your customers dick sizes, but it works.

So rounded ( ) hanger sides can work just fine. Just not in the production Bib models. Cool. Thanks. I now leave you guys alone so you can continue to help pandora here.

 

[Pandora]

>,Ah yes, the beauty of learning to adapt to and overcome my adversities! I tried theraband a few YEARSago, unlike some who hold their tongues so loosely before speaking and did not care for the way it worked for me...it did not. Again, have you checked any of my help threads? My hanging video? I ask to help you from my own experience. As I'm sure you know, you may often benefit from the culmination of the knowledge aquired from MORE than one opinion. Try a different wrap for example. Some cloth...some [words=http://www.mattersofsize.com/forum/showthread.php?44-Ace-Strapped-Jims-Joint]Ace[/words] wrap like I preferred, or maybe a combination of the two.

You dont state your erect girth by the way. Giving more information like your erect girth, flaccid wrapped girth with whatever materials you choose to use (oh hey a rhyme!) as well as your hanger settings....AND details like are you adjusting the hanger properly according to the instructions on the hanger website (http://www.bibhangers.com) will only help you out. I thought I was using the production hanger right for MONTHS and then found out that I was not. I would put the hanger on with the bottom wing nuts backed all the way out, hinge the top halves inside the top setup like they should be, THEN tighten the bottom against my penis. When in fact, the bottom wing nuts should not be used that way. If I've confused anyone refer to the hanger guidelines on the site.[/QUOTE]<

Who says i dont not care LOL? i do i dont i am im not hey i rhyme too.

I've done all the things u said.

I brought the [words=http://www.mattersofsize.com/forum/showthread.php?44-Ace-Strapped-Jims-Joint]ace[/words] wrap as well i do not understand how u used it cause it is as rough as hell i think i may have gotten the wrong stuff.

 

[Bib]

Lifer,

>Both you and stillwantmore tell people how to make concave hangers.
Are they unsafe? Do they work?<

SWM is dead on.

>So if you have a "circular compression" hanger that is "not unsafe" and were to relieve the pressure top and bottom, it could work? So basically you'd have O with the pressure relieved top and bottom and it'd look just about like ( ).<

It could work, yes. You especially want to miss the nerve bundle behind the top of the head.

>Look at your hand as it closes around your dick in the under-hand position to do a standard manual stretch. Now stop your hand just before it completely closes. Open top or U, right? What shape are your fingers and palm in? Not flat. I'd think that'd be a damn good way to stretch and not place a lot of pressure on them top nerves.<

You are correct. But I wanted to go a bit further, and make a hanger that was even better than the hand. To be correct here, the hand is not great for extended periods of stretching. The good points are that it is easy to take off the stress, and put back on. But for extended stressing at a known weight, the hand sucks.

>Look, I'm not trying to re-design your piece, it's just common sense to any manual stretcher that a rounded object gripping your penis works. Maybe it's a bitch to manufacture given the variance in your customers dick sizes, but it works.<

If you believe that, then the home-made Bibs, particularly the modified Bibs, and perfect for you. They are completely adjustable, and you can cut them to fit your own unit. But I abandoned the circular compression designs in favor of lateral pressure designs.

I tried for months, sticking to the concave pattern, trying to get a hanger that could grip properly, and provide all the other attributes I was seeking. It never worked.

>So rounded ( ) hanger sides can work just fine. Just not in the production Bib models.<

They can work fine. Just not as good as the lateral compression model.

Bigger

 

[Bib]

Pandora,

>Then how come i can move the bottom nuts in pretty far and fully mess the top teeth on the orginal but i can not do this on the starter.

What is different about the orginal that lets me do this.<

The Starter is a bit shorter than the regular. Less height between the top and bottom teeth.

>Yes, the top gap needs to be smaller than the bottom gap, but relative to the bottom gap. The mental picture that I have is that you have an extremely large bottom gap, and very little top gap. My question was, did you experiment with a somewhat smaller bottom gap, and a somewhat larger top gap.

See, most guys can fully mesh the top teeth, almost no gap on top gap, and the bottom teeth of the hanger still contain the bottom of the shaft. You probably read something about this, and got this mental picture. But if you have a very large girth, you may need a slightly larger top gap, in order to have a smaller bottom gap, and contain the bottom of the shaft.

There should be a happy medium, where the shaft is contained between the top teeth and the bottom teeth, and the shaft does not impact either the top bolt, or the bottom bolts.

Is there any way for you to email me pics of what you are doing?

Thanks,<

>I use to hang with the bottom gap bigger than the top gap or the top gap and bottom gap around about the same. But then i read some where about making sure that the top gap was smaller than the bottom gap and to try and mesh the top teeth or have as little a gap as possible so i try that and i liked it the best.<

Right. I am writing about smaller increments of adjustment. You always want the top gap to be smaller than the bottom gap. It is also best to have the top gap small enough, that the shaft never comes in contact with the top bolt. However, with almost any girth, you can have the proper adjustment on the bottom hex nut adjustments, to contain the shaft between the top and bottom teeth, and the pressure be on the top sides of the two major chambers.

>i also noticed that the more weight i hung how u suggested to do it the more smaller the bottom gap would have to be making another problem where the teeth would start to hurt when i would tighten down and my shaft would push the top bolt up and cause the washer to slowly grind away at the washer seat making the hanger useless.<

I am sorry. I do not understand exactly what you mean. You do not want the bottom gap so small that it pushes the shaft up into the top bolt. You always want the pressure on the top sides of the two major chambers. I am writing about much smaller increments of adjustment.

Did the washer seat fail?

Any pics or measurements would really help. If you can just give your wrapped flaccid girth measure, I can put you in the ballpark on bottom hex nut adjustment.

Bigger