This is to assist brothers who use Hydroxtreme 7 (also known as HydroExtreme). This is the common-size version and not the widebody, which comes with the additional manual bulb pump as a package. If you didn't purchase it as a package, you can purchase the bulb pump on the side for the modification or use the idea from @squirt_inducer_man to add on the vacuum manual pump and the pressure gauge. It's pretty easy, actually. We can go into other modification details as needed, such as adapting a silicone sleeve onto a T-fitting and flare into the manual pump. I'll work with our brother on this modification as a near future project. Other Bathmate models have similar or exact sizes as well. Just a different sealing lock at the top. This modification will give you clues to what to do for your own unit.
Bathmate model identification (taking the image provided by our brother @squirt_inducer_man):
"Click" on the picture above to make it bigger. You will see the measurements in this picture.
Purpose: Modification made for fast girth gain with safety at the forefront
Objective: Increase the intensity for tunica albuginea and corpus cavernosa expansion to maximize growth while monitoring personal safety
The modification is focused on the bulb pump portion to measure the internal vacuum pressure and add safety for the users. The gauge you can find either comes as a vacuum type or a dual-pressure type. The one I'm using is a dual-pressure type for future recycling of part usage. You can purchase the vacuum pressure only if you like, but make sure that it supports gas and liquid. I'll list the parts:
Push-to-Connect Tube Fitting, Branch Tee, 1/4" Tube OD x 1/4" NPT Male x 1/4" Tube OD
The measurement of the OD (outer diameter) of the red tube is 0.3in (or 3/8in), but in reality, it's a common size that fits into the 0.25in push-to-connect tubing for the water line. This unit allows you to go as high as 290 psi, or 183 inHg. I highly doubt our penis can handle anything beyond 30 inHg. If you need more length, purchase any Food Grade 1/4" ID x 3/8" OD Silicone Tubing. This allows you to have human health safety and long-lasting parts at the same time. The pressure can go beyond 30 inHg and 30 psi, but we're not going further than that. Estimated cost is between $7 to $15 depending on shipping cost. I don't see it around the local hardware stores.
-30~30Psi Vacuum Pressure Gauge 1/4" NPT 2.5" FACE DIAL, Stainless Steel Liquid Filled Pressure Gauge WOG Water Oil Air Center Back Mount
Notice the -30 inHg to +30psi (notice a difference in pressure between vacuum pressure in inHg vs positive pressure in psi). Once again, our penis is not meant to enter into the high vacuum pressure territory beyond 20 inHg (508 mmHg) for more than 60 seconds unless you're an extremist. The upper range of vacuum pressure is meant for those who have been on the PE journey for years. When you purchase the gauge, make sure to get the one that supports both water and gas. Purchase cheapy one that only supports air will give you grief later when you introduce water. Estimated cost is between $15 to $35, depending on shipping cost. Can't find this anywhere around the local hardware stores. Not even the welding stores.
Coupling 1/4 Inch NPT x 1/4 Inch NPT Female Pipe Adapter
This will join the pressure gauge and the tube fitting together. Just visit the local hardware store to find the best length for your needs. Mine is 1-inch length. You might want to select 0.5 to 0.75in length just to save a bit of space. Estimated cost for plastic is around $3 and metal is $6.
or 
For those who are searching for just the one-way valve bulb pump itself, you can find them on AliExpress or an alternative 1/4in (6mm) one way valve fuel transfer bulb. If you need extra hose line, 1/4 inch vinyl or food grade silicone tubing. Estimated cost is around $15 to $30, depending on shipping cost. Do remember that the Bathmate knockoff pumps are based on the older versions and not the latest. Although, the cap for the pump remains the same while the pumps are old.
Adaptable to existing bleeding system like the MityVac hand pump or similar with these parts:
@squirt_inducer_man already has his mod using 3/4in or 20mm vinyl/silicone tubing over the bleeder locking cap. You can heat-shrink it to fit inside the bleeder cap as well. Do remember that having food grade (commonly designed for household drinking water) over the common plastic/silicone used for general piping will prevent the processed petroleum residues from sticking to your skin. It's both for hygienic and safety reasons.
Additional parts: Use these parts to adapt to other manual vacuum pumps, such as bulb type, brake bleeder hand gun type, or any one way valve bleeder system type.
3/4 inch barb to 3/4 inch FIP fitting. The barb goes into the plastic tubing. Heat shrink it to promote perfect seal over the barb. The FIP is the female threaded end. Estimated cost for plastic is around $3 and metal is $6.
3/4 inch MIP x 1/4 inch FIP pipe hex bushing fitting. This screws into the female FIP fitting above. Estimated cost for plastic is around $4 and metal is $6.
From here on out, let your creativity takes hold of you. You can use that 1/4 inch FIP to fit a 1/4 inch barb at the end, connect to a hose, and run it to a MityVac bleeding kit already have a gauge on there. Estimated cost is around $35 to $50, depending on where you purchase it.
For our brother @squirt_inducer_man that use the Vacu Vin wine saver pump, you can adapt a larger design with these parts:
3/4 inch barb x 3/4 inch MIP Adapter Fitting. This is to link between the tube and the 3/4 inch T fitting below. Estimated cost for plastic is $5 and metal is $8.
3/4 inch Tee FIP fitting. This is to connect the fitting above, and prepare it for the gauge and the pipe end for the pump. Estimated cost for plastic is around $3 and metal is $6.
One more 3/4 inch barb x 3/4 inch MIP Adapter Fitting. This is to link between the Tee FIP fitting and prepare a tube for the Vacu Vin hand pump. A 12 inch length is $5 for standard vinyl, and $10 for food grade.
A desired length of vinyl/silicone tubing, food grade when possible, to attach to the barb. Heat shrink it to create a perfect tight fit.
A wine saver pump. Most pump has a 3/4 inch diameter. You can heat treat it to expand or shrink to fit based on the diameter of the any pump. Estimated cheapest costs: $10
Whatever modification method you want use, it's limited by your ingenuity and budget. If you weigh safety versus budget, safety will save you a whole lot more in the long run.
Do remember that this modification is for the brothers using HydroXtreme 7, and they have yet to max out the girth size. I haven't even reach 80% of the total girth of the comfort insert yet even after three pump sessions. When I reach that 95% filling space, I'll remove the comfort insert and use that extra 0.75 inch of free diameter to further expand my girth. As one of our brothers create a good imagery of what happens when you force your expansion through the comfort insert:
I'm also focusing on my glans expansion over my entire penile body, so in a sense, this is also a blessing and a curse. The natural penis among the mammals of the animal kingdom has a more prominent glans than the shaft/body, which is designed to scoop out the old deposited semen and push the dominant semen deposit deep into the vaginal canal. For humans, we adopted the glans as an internal stimulus penile part, especially the usage of the enhancement/expansion of the corona (the glans's rim) and the remaining portion of the penile base during the sexual excitement peaks to stimulate the clitoris region. If you have a long penis, between 7 to 9 inches, the focus should be the glans, the base, then the midshaft. Why? Think about which of the vaginal areas you're stimulating.
The glans provides the maximum stimulation to the internal clitoris during the initial stroke, which is the entire region of the vaginal canal's first 3 inches. Most oral stimulation the ladies give tends to be the glans and not the entire shaft. Something to think about since that's where most, if not all, your nerve endings are located at.
(Notice the inner clitoris region in comparison the coverage area starting from the labia majora, the large vagina lips)
(Observe the "approximate area". That is more than 5 square inches of approximation to hit.)
(Notice the location of the AFE-zone or A-spot, commonly near and around the cervix. Cervix location tends to relocate either below or above based on past vaginal traumas, such as injuries, pregnancies, or even surgeries). The A-spot is actually larger than the G-spot for mature females. Longer penis length and larger glans help to stimulate this whole area further.)
A larger glans also provides comfort to the cervix upon contact. Rather than a harsh point impact due to small and/or pointy glans, the glans can assist in displacing the cervix away during the long strokes or fast action based on positions. If your penile length is long enough, the glans will help in hitting the larger area composed of the G-spot and a smaller area composed of the A-spot in a single stroke. Your large penile base will help to stimulate the exposed clitoris glans further based on positions (69, spider, missionary, even doggy). During intense moments, the vagina wall clamps down on the enlarged penis glans, adding optimal pleasure to both you and her. But of course, this is my opinion, and those who focused on enlarging their glans in the past to pleasure their ladies. For those who believe to have slight or too much turkey neck issues, don't discount that excess skin of yours. It actually helps to pleasure the labia (vagina lips) or hyperstimulate the clitoris glans during positions where your turkey neck comes in contact. My wife loves those intense stimulating moments where her clitoris glans gets slightly roughed up by the turkey neck.
Using @squirt_inducer_man penile anatomy photos:
Words of the wise from @DLD and it's a fact:
"Temporary gains lead to permanent gains. As girth expands with each session so does the Tunica. As the Tunica is slowly stretched permanent girth is established. It is a process that will repeat itself until you get to your goals."
Installation:
Mark your cutting location. You can either select the cutting location near the bulb, or near the Bathmate cylinder. If you select the placement near the bulb, it's easier to hold everything in one hand during pumping. If you select the placement near the cylinder, it's easier for you to support both the cylinder and the gauge weight, freeing your other hands to do the pumping or supporting other tasks.
When you mark the cutting location, make sure to line up the plastic tubing with the T-tube fitting closest to the back area of T-tube fitting. This allows the tightest connection possible to prevent air leakage, while providing closest to the pumping bulb or the cylinder to prevent bulky line slag. The slag will make your life miserable later.
Either heat the line or use a sharp knife and trim the edge down a bit. The outer diameter of the tubing is slightly larger than the 3/8in diameter of the T-tube fitting. Very common for high pressure tubing. By shrinking or trimming the insert point a bit, it allows you have a pushing start into the T-fitting with ease. Otherwise, you'll have a fun time forcing the tubing into the T-tube fitting.
(Using original line, and trimmed for shorter connection when I'm in the shower)
(Using 1/4 inch food grade silicone tubing for longer extension to use when I'm not in the shower)
Install the pressure gauge onto the T-tube fitting. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO TWIST THE HEX SCREW OFF THE PLASTIC T-TUBE FITTING. We made a mistake with the first one by holding onto the plastic T-tube fitting and twist on the 1/4-inch coupling. If that metal hex nut twists loosely from the plastic T-tube fitting, that T-tube fitting is no longer usable. My suggestion is to use two hex wrenches for tightening only on the metal parts. Do not use force anywhere on the plastic portion of the T-tube fiting.
(original 3/8-inch thick vinyl wall red hose vs 1/4-in thin food grade vinyl and silicone hose)
Air static pressure testing: successful
Water static pressure testing: successful
Usage and Safety Direction:
4 inHg to 5 inHg = 102 to 127 mmHg (this is the healthy body full erection)
6 inHg to 8 inHg = 152 to 203 mmHg (this is where sexually hyper-excited state in very healthy bodies, peaking into force expansion jelqing territory)
9 inHg to 10 inHg = 229 to 254 mmHg (this is no longer normal and entering into hyper-expansion territory)
11 inHg to 12 inHg = 279 to 305 mmHg (you're entering into unsafe territory with possible glans blistering internal blood vessel rupture after 30 seconds).
16 inHg = 406 mmHg (your corpus cavernosa can still handle the pressure, but not your glans's tissues and blood vessels. Leave this to the ultra veterans that already developed their penises from the 6+ years of penile enhancement and have already pre-conditioned for extreme pressures)
Bathmate model identification (taking the image provided by our brother @squirt_inducer_man):
"Click" on the picture above to make it bigger. You will see the measurements in this picture.
Purpose: Modification made for fast girth gain with safety at the forefront
Objective: Increase the intensity for tunica albuginea and corpus cavernosa expansion to maximize growth while monitoring personal safety
The modification is focused on the bulb pump portion to measure the internal vacuum pressure and add safety for the users. The gauge you can find either comes as a vacuum type or a dual-pressure type. The one I'm using is a dual-pressure type for future recycling of part usage. You can purchase the vacuum pressure only if you like, but make sure that it supports gas and liquid. I'll list the parts:
Push-to-Connect Tube Fitting, Branch Tee, 1/4" Tube OD x 1/4" NPT Male x 1/4" Tube OD
The measurement of the OD (outer diameter) of the red tube is 0.3in (or 3/8in), but in reality, it's a common size that fits into the 0.25in push-to-connect tubing for the water line. This unit allows you to go as high as 290 psi, or 183 inHg. I highly doubt our penis can handle anything beyond 30 inHg. If you need more length, purchase any Food Grade 1/4" ID x 3/8" OD Silicone Tubing. This allows you to have human health safety and long-lasting parts at the same time. The pressure can go beyond 30 inHg and 30 psi, but we're not going further than that. Estimated cost is between $7 to $15 depending on shipping cost. I don't see it around the local hardware stores.
-30~30Psi Vacuum Pressure Gauge 1/4" NPT 2.5" FACE DIAL, Stainless Steel Liquid Filled Pressure Gauge WOG Water Oil Air Center Back Mount
Notice the -30 inHg to +30psi (notice a difference in pressure between vacuum pressure in inHg vs positive pressure in psi). Once again, our penis is not meant to enter into the high vacuum pressure territory beyond 20 inHg (508 mmHg) for more than 60 seconds unless you're an extremist. The upper range of vacuum pressure is meant for those who have been on the PE journey for years. When you purchase the gauge, make sure to get the one that supports both water and gas. Purchase cheapy one that only supports air will give you grief later when you introduce water. Estimated cost is between $15 to $35, depending on shipping cost. Can't find this anywhere around the local hardware stores. Not even the welding stores.
Coupling 1/4 Inch NPT x 1/4 Inch NPT Female Pipe Adapter
This will join the pressure gauge and the tube fitting together. Just visit the local hardware store to find the best length for your needs. Mine is 1-inch length. You might want to select 0.5 to 0.75in length just to save a bit of space. Estimated cost for plastic is around $3 and metal is $6.
or For those who are searching for just the one-way valve bulb pump itself, you can find them on AliExpress or an alternative 1/4in (6mm) one way valve fuel transfer bulb. If you need extra hose line, 1/4 inch vinyl or food grade silicone tubing. Estimated cost is around $15 to $30, depending on shipping cost. Do remember that the Bathmate knockoff pumps are based on the older versions and not the latest. Although, the cap for the pump remains the same while the pumps are old.
Adaptable to existing bleeding system like the MityVac hand pump or similar with these parts:
@squirt_inducer_man already has his mod using 3/4in or 20mm vinyl/silicone tubing over the bleeder locking cap. You can heat-shrink it to fit inside the bleeder cap as well. Do remember that having food grade (commonly designed for household drinking water) over the common plastic/silicone used for general piping will prevent the processed petroleum residues from sticking to your skin. It's both for hygienic and safety reasons.
Additional parts: Use these parts to adapt to other manual vacuum pumps, such as bulb type, brake bleeder hand gun type, or any one way valve bleeder system type.
3/4 inch barb to 3/4 inch FIP fitting. The barb goes into the plastic tubing. Heat shrink it to promote perfect seal over the barb. The FIP is the female threaded end. Estimated cost for plastic is around $3 and metal is $6.
3/4 inch MIP x 1/4 inch FIP pipe hex bushing fitting. This screws into the female FIP fitting above. Estimated cost for plastic is around $4 and metal is $6.
From here on out, let your creativity takes hold of you. You can use that 1/4 inch FIP to fit a 1/4 inch barb at the end, connect to a hose, and run it to a MityVac bleeding kit already have a gauge on there. Estimated cost is around $35 to $50, depending on where you purchase it.
For our brother @squirt_inducer_man that use the Vacu Vin wine saver pump, you can adapt a larger design with these parts:
3/4 inch barb x 3/4 inch MIP Adapter Fitting. This is to link between the tube and the 3/4 inch T fitting below. Estimated cost for plastic is $5 and metal is $8.
3/4 inch Tee FIP fitting. This is to connect the fitting above, and prepare it for the gauge and the pipe end for the pump. Estimated cost for plastic is around $3 and metal is $6.
One more 3/4 inch barb x 3/4 inch MIP Adapter Fitting. This is to link between the Tee FIP fitting and prepare a tube for the Vacu Vin hand pump. A 12 inch length is $5 for standard vinyl, and $10 for food grade.
A desired length of vinyl/silicone tubing, food grade when possible, to attach to the barb. Heat shrink it to create a perfect tight fit.
A wine saver pump. Most pump has a 3/4 inch diameter. You can heat treat it to expand or shrink to fit based on the diameter of the any pump. Estimated cheapest costs: $10
Whatever modification method you want use, it's limited by your ingenuity and budget. If you weigh safety versus budget, safety will save you a whole lot more in the long run.
Do remember that this modification is for the brothers using HydroXtreme 7, and they have yet to max out the girth size. I haven't even reach 80% of the total girth of the comfort insert yet even after three pump sessions. When I reach that 95% filling space, I'll remove the comfort insert and use that extra 0.75 inch of free diameter to further expand my girth. As one of our brothers create a good imagery of what happens when you force your expansion through the comfort insert:
I'm also focusing on my glans expansion over my entire penile body, so in a sense, this is also a blessing and a curse. The natural penis among the mammals of the animal kingdom has a more prominent glans than the shaft/body, which is designed to scoop out the old deposited semen and push the dominant semen deposit deep into the vaginal canal. For humans, we adopted the glans as an internal stimulus penile part, especially the usage of the enhancement/expansion of the corona (the glans's rim) and the remaining portion of the penile base during the sexual excitement peaks to stimulate the clitoris region. If you have a long penis, between 7 to 9 inches, the focus should be the glans, the base, then the midshaft. Why? Think about which of the vaginal areas you're stimulating.
The glans provides the maximum stimulation to the internal clitoris during the initial stroke, which is the entire region of the vaginal canal's first 3 inches. Most oral stimulation the ladies give tends to be the glans and not the entire shaft. Something to think about since that's where most, if not all, your nerve endings are located at.
(Notice the inner clitoris region in comparison the coverage area starting from the labia majora, the large vagina lips)
(Observe the "approximate area". That is more than 5 square inches of approximation to hit.)
(Notice the location of the AFE-zone or A-spot, commonly near and around the cervix. Cervix location tends to relocate either below or above based on past vaginal traumas, such as injuries, pregnancies, or even surgeries). The A-spot is actually larger than the G-spot for mature females. Longer penis length and larger glans help to stimulate this whole area further.)
A larger glans also provides comfort to the cervix upon contact. Rather than a harsh point impact due to small and/or pointy glans, the glans can assist in displacing the cervix away during the long strokes or fast action based on positions. If your penile length is long enough, the glans will help in hitting the larger area composed of the G-spot and a smaller area composed of the A-spot in a single stroke. Your large penile base will help to stimulate the exposed clitoris glans further based on positions (69, spider, missionary, even doggy). During intense moments, the vagina wall clamps down on the enlarged penis glans, adding optimal pleasure to both you and her. But of course, this is my opinion, and those who focused on enlarging their glans in the past to pleasure their ladies. For those who believe to have slight or too much turkey neck issues, don't discount that excess skin of yours. It actually helps to pleasure the labia (vagina lips) or hyperstimulate the clitoris glans during positions where your turkey neck comes in contact. My wife loves those intense stimulating moments where her clitoris glans gets slightly roughed up by the turkey neck.
Using @squirt_inducer_man penile anatomy photos:
Words of the wise from @DLD and it's a fact:
"Temporary gains lead to permanent gains. As girth expands with each session so does the Tunica. As the Tunica is slowly stretched permanent girth is established. It is a process that will repeat itself until you get to your goals."
Installation:
Mark your cutting location. You can either select the cutting location near the bulb, or near the Bathmate cylinder. If you select the placement near the bulb, it's easier to hold everything in one hand during pumping. If you select the placement near the cylinder, it's easier for you to support both the cylinder and the gauge weight, freeing your other hands to do the pumping or supporting other tasks.
When you mark the cutting location, make sure to line up the plastic tubing with the T-tube fitting closest to the back area of T-tube fitting. This allows the tightest connection possible to prevent air leakage, while providing closest to the pumping bulb or the cylinder to prevent bulky line slag. The slag will make your life miserable later.
Either heat the line or use a sharp knife and trim the edge down a bit. The outer diameter of the tubing is slightly larger than the 3/8in diameter of the T-tube fitting. Very common for high pressure tubing. By shrinking or trimming the insert point a bit, it allows you have a pushing start into the T-fitting with ease. Otherwise, you'll have a fun time forcing the tubing into the T-tube fitting.
(Using original line, and trimmed for shorter connection when I'm in the shower)
(Using 1/4 inch food grade silicone tubing for longer extension to use when I'm not in the shower)
Install the pressure gauge onto the T-tube fitting. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO TWIST THE HEX SCREW OFF THE PLASTIC T-TUBE FITTING. We made a mistake with the first one by holding onto the plastic T-tube fitting and twist on the 1/4-inch coupling. If that metal hex nut twists loosely from the plastic T-tube fitting, that T-tube fitting is no longer usable. My suggestion is to use two hex wrenches for tightening only on the metal parts. Do not use force anywhere on the plastic portion of the T-tube fiting.
(original 3/8-inch thick vinyl wall red hose vs 1/4-in thin food grade vinyl and silicone hose)
Air static pressure testing: successful
Water static pressure testing: successful
Usage and Safety Direction:
- Make sure the internal bleed valve is closed. This means you need to turn clockwise fully to prevent accidental pressure release, which means it's locked. Counter-clockwise will allows air to be introduced into the system when you press gently onto the cap.
- The small pin/lever used for water bleeding should be centered. This allows the water to continually leave the chamber when the bulb pump is mounted to the Bathmate unit.
- Achieve full erection when possible as you enter the penile shaft into the Bathmate. If not, make sure to perform stimuli and kegel exercise to get the penis fully erected. If you're not fully erected, or even partially erected, the pumping session will not be as effective until you manage to get more blood to be engorged inside the penile body. The true expansion during each session starts when you are 100% erected, followed by additional blood flow into the fully expanded corpus cavernosa (the two main chambers) and the corpus spongiosum (the secondary chamber at bottom around your urethra).
- DO NOT GO FULL PRESSURE immediately. Stay within reasonable range, between 5 to 6 inHg for the first session, or even lower if you feel a throbing pain along the penile body. Just use enough pressure until your penile shaft feels a good internal exertion beyond the fully erected penis. Add a couple more inHg for the second and third session until you can feel that full internal exertion again.
- NEVER EVER exceed 10 inHg as a beginner, or remain in static pressure for more than 60 seconds. You will develop blisters on the glans, bruise your penis shaft, or burst your blood vessels. Slowly release the pressure down to 6 inHg, and rise back up to 10 inHG every 30 to 60 seconds. We're aiming for forced expansion with safety in mind. Those who have been doing this for a long while, they can go higher based on their experiences. Once you reach into the 12 inHg territory, your glans will expand, and with moisture influenced on the glans's tissue, a crack in the skin can develop if the glans over expands. Slow and steady when it comes to the expansion game as you pass the 10 inHg mark.
- For veterans (more than a year), NEVER EVER exceed 16 inHg more than 60 seconds using water. I'm not joking with you. I use air only and it's tollerable. Using water, the vacuum compression is crazy. On the third session, it left a nice bruising within 30 seconds, and within 60 seconds, I got a mini blister.
4 inHg to 5 inHg = 102 to 127 mmHg (this is the healthy body full erection)
6 inHg to 8 inHg = 152 to 203 mmHg (this is where sexually hyper-excited state in very healthy bodies, peaking into force expansion jelqing territory)
9 inHg to 10 inHg = 229 to 254 mmHg (this is no longer normal and entering into hyper-expansion territory)
11 inHg to 12 inHg = 279 to 305 mmHg (you're entering into unsafe territory with possible glans blistering internal blood vessel rupture after 30 seconds).
16 inHg = 406 mmHg (your corpus cavernosa can still handle the pressure, but not your glans's tissues and blood vessels. Leave this to the ultra veterans that already developed their penises from the 6+ years of penile enhancement and have already pre-conditioned for extreme pressures)
Last edited:
How to link to a video from the ALBUM SECTION
Awesome information.
but I stopped myself. hahahaha!!!
