How to remove cylinder head for maintenance?

[oldandlively]

Just wondering how the brothers prevent the rust from occuring for the seat rings at the top? Rust starts to form around the seating c-clamp ring and washer at the top and making a mess. I can't figure a way to remove the sealing cap (the one with the o-rings) to clean the seating c-clamp and washer.

Beside that, how to apply the silicone on the o-rings and not the side of the chamber? Applying the food grade silicone on the cylinder wall simply get it wiped away.

 

[oldandlively]

Since I couldn't get any assistance on this matter, I went ahead and did my own thing. Just to let you know that I'm not responsible for the void of warranty on the product, but being hygienic is crucial in the game of PE. Rust due to moisture buildup is not something you want to have in the cylinder as it's a promotion to sepsis and bacterial infection. Improper cleaning and lubrication will cause bacterial infection and suction failure. I wish the full kit comes with the upgrade design and tool.

In the previous post, you saw how bad the rust was forming. The 0.5mm washer and the c-clip was pratically turning orange due to rust. Even if you don't see rust, the cylinder's sealing cap must be removed for maintenance to prevent bacterial formation. So, on with the mod.

1. Find yourself a good strong wire around 8 to 10in (20 to 25cm) long. A salvaged bicycle spoke is a good example. Thick and strong, which does not bend under pressure.
2. Find a drill bit that's barely larger than the wire's diameter. I mean barely. Too large of a diameter may damage the cylinder's wall and the washer-clip.
3. Drill two holes at the best position possible, away from the washer-clip, directly opposite sides. Never one hole, but two holes instead. This provides proper downward pressure to prevent sealing cap damage during removal proceedure.
4. Bend the wire to match the holes for both sides.
5. Bend the ends of the wire slightly inward to preven the scratching of the sidewall of the vacuum cylinder.
6. File down both ends of the wire to ensure flat contacts on both sides. I use 1200 grits sandpaper to make the surface nice and smooth.

When you try to remove the sealing cap, make sure to twist the cap all the way to the bottom until you hear the click. This means the cap's twisting body is no longer nested inside the twisting knob. Insert your wire tool, and push downwards with equal force on both side. It should not take more a 2 lbs of weight (~0.9kg) to push the sealing cap out.

Make sure to wash everything with antibacterial soap and warm water. If there's just, I use a bit of PB Blaster/WD40 with a cotton swap, squirl the saturated chemical around the washer and c-clip, leave the chemical to remove the rust in 5 to 10 minutes wash the cylinder out thoroughly, and dry all components well.

Make sure everything is nice and fully dry before adding good helping of grade silicone grease around the o-rings, and pack the grease all around the washer and c-clip to prevent moisture exposure. Push the sealing cap back up and engage it to the twisting knob.

Now, you have a nice clean unit for another week. Do this weekly. Bacteria counts in that chamber after a week is no joke. Using ADS with broken skin and a vacuum full of bacteria will get you severely ill.

 

[squirt_inducer_man]

Thanks for sharing. I will look closely on this later.

 

[DLD]

Thanks for sharing. I will look closely on this later.

You will soon get to see it physically what's i'm so excited about

 

[squirt_inducer_man]

You will soon get to see it physically what's i'm so excited about

Perfect

 

[GritsNGravy]

So it this the only solution available? I already have rust forming after only 3 uses and I gotta be honest...I simply don't have the time or resources to be able to clean this like that. I'm struggling as is just to get my length and girth workout into my day.

 

[huge-girth]

So it this the only solution available? I already have rust forming after only 3 uses and I gotta be honest...I simply don't have the time or resources to be able to clean this like that. I'm struggling as is just to get my length and girth workout into my day.

Buy the length master let me be your personal coach.

 

[oldandlively]

So it this the only solution available? I already have rust forming after only 3 uses and I gotta be honest...I simply don't have the time or resources to be able to clean this like that. I'm struggling as is just to get my length and girth workout into my day.

A SiliStretcher (an All Day Stetcher or Extender) or an hard base Extender requires mounting and cleaning. The Extender uses the noose and strap type doesn't need to be cleaned constantly, but it's quite painful after an hour or two. The vacuum cup type is much more comfortable but requires more attention. Always a plus and minus on benefits for each system.

As coach huge-girth said, the next one is the full blow powered up Length Master. This is an intermediate system using mechanical assist to pull your penis to the max stretchable point for the next 15 to 40 minutes, and you simply wrap up all day afterwards. But if you to want to gain faster, again, you pair up with the all day stretcher or extender.

 

[DLD]

Buy the length master let me be your personal coach.

Best answer! Everyone needs Couch Huge-girth and a lenghtmaster

 

[oldandlively]

Best answer! Everyone needs Couch Huge-girth and a lenghtmaster

"Couch Huge-girth". Hm. Not sure if he likes to be sat on.

 

[DLD]

"Couch Huge-girth". Hm. Not sure if he likes to be sat on.

I got an F in spelling.

 

[GritsNGravy]

I definitely plan on buying the lengthmaster but I just don't have the money right now unfortunately. What's the worst that can happen if I don't get the rusty colored gunk out? I'm just having a hard time thinking about voiding the warranty and risking breaking it by drilling holes in it...

 

[oldandlively]

I definitely plan on buying the lengthmaster but I just don't have the money right now unfortunately. What's the worst that can happen if I don't get the rusty colored gunk out? I'm just having a hard time thinking about voiding the warranty and risking breaking it by drilling holes in it...

It was brought up to MoS earlier. The older model allows you to remove the vacuum cap. The newer one has a shorter knob so it can't be removed as readily as the older model. The best thing to do is to mod it by creating two vent holes at the very top, and a pusher to push the vacuum lid down. @DLD, will this void the warranty due to design flaw so we can clean the rusty moisture from the clip pin? It has to be maintained or else hygiene will be a problem.

 

[DLD]

No. Your warranty is for life no matter what. We have the best customer service for all your needs.

 

[oldandlively]

No. Your warranty is for life no matter what. We have the best customer service for all your needs.

@GritsNGravy There you have it. From the master of the site and products.

 

[GritsNGravy]

Ok, thanks, I'll try to mimick this method. So do you leave the wire in it from then on out? Does having two holes in the cup not affect the way it builds suction/pressure?

 

[oldandlively]

Ok, thanks, I'll try to mimick this method. So do you leave the wire in it from then on out? Does having two holes in the cup not affect the way it builds suction/pressure?

The two holes at the very top do not interfere with the vacuum below the moving lid.

I left the wire prongs there for illustration purposes. Once you use the wire prong, or any small two sided pushing rod method to push out the lid, remove the wire prong right afterwards.

Use food grade silicone lubricant on and around the C-clip to protect it from water intrusion and water corrosion. Add a nice thin layer round the two orings around the lid's edge as well. No lubricant means high friction between the o-rings and the cup's wall. Not good for the unit.